HONEYMOON PARADISE IN ST LUCIA

"I can't wait to get out of this dress," says a bride to her new husband as they rush past me up the stairs. I nod sympathetically at their retreating figures.

Although it may be towards the end of the high season - which runs from December to April - the temperature in St Lucia is still a constant 29 degrees, and plenty of wedding couples have a job to stay cool.

Lying north of South America, this eastern Caribbean island eight hours' flight from London is a popular wedding and honeymoon destination.

Offering a James Bond-style holiday, replete with fast boats, waving palm trees and stiff cocktails, the 27-mile-long and 14-mile-wide retreat neighbours the famous tropical islands of Martinique and Barbados.

Each night, dark blue clouds edge across the St Lucian horizon, turning the gentle light blue sky into a vivid sea of colour. This filmic view provides the perfect backdrop for a glass of champagne and the type of evening evoked in romantic novels.

An easy way to sample the best bits of St Lucian life is to stay in a resort.

One of the most respected and well-established hotel chains on the island is Sandals, which offers a fantastic all-inclusive island experience. While the temptation to never leave your hotel is strong, you'll find that exploring the volcanos, local fishing villages, botanic gardens and sulphur springs makes that early-evening pina colada all the more rewarding.

By far the best way to see the island is by boat. Our guide suggested we spend our first day near the small southwesterly beach of Anse Chastenet, from which you can take in many of the island's hot spots.

After setting sail one bright blue morning, we gasped as the Pitons appeared on the horizon.

These twin volcanic peaks rise 740 metres above sea level and are a UNESCO World Heritage site. But don't worry, there's no danger of forgetting to see them while on your trip - Piton is also the name of the local beer.

Some visitors choose the four-hour hike to the top, but the more sweat-averse tourists can enjoy the view from the boat. Surrounded by green tropical vegetation, they have the look of a Bond villain's headquarters, and our group was slightly disappointed when they didn't open up to reveal silver weapons.

Mooring up on shore, we headed to the hot springs that bubble up from the volcanic soil. Locals bathe in the sulphurous water, which is said to cure arthritis, rheumatism and various skin complaints - but the hot water put most of us off.

Our guide was also very careful to point out the dangers of the nearby steaming pits, known as fumaroles. At 380 degrees, these bubble ferociously, letting off steam and gas - and apparently aren't nearly so soothing.

This area around the Pitons is growing in popularity. A new exclusive resort called Jade Mountain, with a unique view over the volcanos, was finished 18 months ago.

Singer Amy Winehouse and actor Matt Damon have already enjoyed its £2,500 a week hospitality.

Suites in this breathtaking designer hotel might be beyond most peoples' budgets, but you can still have lunch in the Jade Mountain restaurant for a fraction of that price. And if you ask nicely, they might let you use their infinity pool, which provides a glorious view of the mountains.


Once back on the boat, snorkelling is a gentle and fascinating way to burn off lunch. The most popular dive site on the island is a reef near Anse Chastenet beach. If you're new to water sports, snorkelling is a terrific introduction to both water and the wonders of the deep blue sea.

Sadly, our group got so carried away with fish identification - I think I spotted 32 different types - that we missed out on an opportunity to visit the Botanic Gardens.


After heading back to the hotel, there was time for a quick shower before heading out again - this time in a minibus - for the Friday night Anse Le Ray beach town barbecue.

Developing a taste for fish is fairly important for visitors to St Lucia, otherwise the wonderful opportunities to eat fresh Red Snapper, King Fish and Mahi Mahi will be lost on you.

After dinner the local 'hop' gets going. But push images of 1950s girls with ponytails to the back of your mind. This is a strictly Caribbean affair - the street vibrates to the sound of steel drums, brightly dressed dancers shaking their hips and the cries of excited locals and tourists.

Anyone who finds it hard to get in the mood - and what Briton wouldn't - should try some spiced rum. A local drink flavoured with cherries, cinnamon, nutmeg, bay leaf, marinated spices and thyme, it's peculiarly like cough syrup with similarly loosening effects.

After a long day spent looking around the island, the resort beckoned invitingly. Having been provided with a butler for the duration of my stay, I put in a quick call to ensure that a bubble bath was awaiting my return. Climbing into a bed thoughtfully pre-covered with pink petals, I decided that I could definitely get used to having staff.

When your holiday destination is so small, inevitably the range of demands can quickly reduce to 'Where shall we eat tonight?', 'Would you like another drink?' and 'Shall we go for a swim, now or later?'.

But for those not content to let their days lap around them like gentle Caribbean waves, Sandals offers a massive range of water sports. Which is how I found myself with my feet attached to two skis being pulled through the warm sea.

Having 'conquered' one sport, I decided to leave all the other activities - which include scuba diving, sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, wake boarding, knee boarding and a ride on an aqua trike - to my friends. It's never a good idea to push yourself too hard.

But our group did agree to one last adventure. Having spent two days downing dangerous levels of rum, we booked a ziplining trip into the rainforest.

Covering 19,000 acres of the island, the rainforest is a natural habitat for a diverse selection of plant and animals - as well as the odd tourist pretending to be Tarzan.

Ziplining involves sliding along a cable from tree to tree. Attached by a series of clips to a metal line, we had a five-minute lesson on how to keep straight and control our speed, before being pushed out through the rainforest canopy. Platforms range from 50 to 495 feet in height. And, once you've realised you're not going to die, it's both an exhilarating experience and absolutely the best way to explore this lush part of the island.

Sitting together for a celebratory lunch of kingfish and pina coladas, we all agreed that St Lucia was a big playground - and we couldn't wait to come back. With our new husbands.

TRAVEL FACTS
Complete Caribbean offers seven nights' Luxury Included (all-inclusive) at Sandals Grande St Lucian Spa & Beach Resort in a Grande Deluxe Room from £1,475 per person, including flights ex-Gatwick (two sharing) in November. Regional supplements from Manchester/Glasgow start around £130 per person.
Honeymooners who prefer to book the one-bedroom beachfront St Lucian Suites pay from £2,095.
Reservations: Complete Caribbean (0142 353 1031; www.completecaribbean.co.uk).
:: Sandals information: 0207 590 0254 and www.sandals.co.uk